Hone in on three key areas

Buyers of used horizontal directional drills should focus on three critical areas, says Joel D. Nichols, service manager for Ditch Witch of Alabama, Alabaster, Alabama:

The drill frame, including the anchoring – or stake down system and stabilizers.

The power system, particularly the engine and hydraulic components.

And finally, downhole tools, which include the drill pipes, beacon housing, bits and backreamers.

Before you inspect a machine, ask if any maintenance records are available.

Before you start, tap someone knowledgeable to head up the drill inspection. Nichols handily fits that role, with almost 45 years of experience both servicing and selling a variety of Ditch Witch products. “It’s the only job I’ve ever had,” he says. “I went straight home from Vietnam to selling Ditch Witch equipment.”

Joel Nichols

Our inspection model is a JT2020 with 1,776 hours on it. It’s been installing communication lines, and in its second life could go into a variety of markets, including returning to communication installations, or drilling power, water and sewer lines. Nichols notes that the hours on any drill show actual, hard duty as opposed to other types of construction equipment: “Any time it’s running, it’s usually boring.”

While a new machine typically would be sold as a three-part package – drill frame, mud mixing system and tracking system – used horizontal drilling machines are usually offered solo. “Contractors could have a mud mixing and tracking system from a previous machine that would work with a newer machine so they tend to keep them,” Nichols says.

Before you inspect a machine, ask if any maintenance records are available. This will give you a good idea of the care the machine has received.

Drill frame

A straight frame is critical, and broken frames are difficult to repair. A misaligned frame means undue wear on components.

On both tracks, examine the rollers, bearings, idlers, pins and drive sprockets, looking for excessive wear. Look at the wear on the track cleats, or bar lugs. Replacing a track costs around $3,000, Nichols notes.

The hydraulically powered carriage moves up and down thrusting and rotating the drill pipe during drilling, and pulling back during backreaming. Look for hydraulic leaks on this key component. Move it back and forth with your hands to see if there’s any play in the rack and pinion, which works the carriage forward and back. Look for undue wear patterns on the rack and pinion, which should have an even wear pattern from top to bottom. Make sure the rack and pinion are meshed and aligned.

Check out the drill pipe loading system. Look for hydraulic leaks along the hoses and manifolds. “You’ll know right off the bat if the plastic’s not inside the drill pipe loaders, and they’re inexpensive to replace,” Nichol says. Make sure the front and back pipe loaders are aligned.

During your walk around, always look for hydraulic leaks, usually located at O-rings, fittings and hydraulic lines. Other checkpoints include hydraulic manifolds and hydraulic motors. The good news is that these leaks are easy to detect and inexpensive to repair.

Go to the front of the machine and look at the anchoring system, which secures the machine while boring. While you’ll be operating this system later in the inspection, right now you want to check for hydraulic leaks, whether the shafts are cracked or bent, or there’s a lot of movement when you push the anchor shafts left and right.

Go to the back of the machine and examine the stabilizers on each side, checking for hydraulic leaks on the cylinders, and examining the bushings and pins. Since stabilizers support the weight of the machine while it’s drilling – in the JT2020’s case, about 11,000 pounds – also check the areas where the stabilizers attach to the frame for any signs of stress.

Engines and hydraulics

Look for leaks and examine the engine, fuel and air filters, noting when they’ve last been changed, a date that should be written on the filter canister.

While the engine compartment of the JT2020 showed dirt and dust, there were no leaks.

Check for chafing of the hydraulic lines, where they rub against each other and another component. Particularly note the lines coming off pumps and motors.

Evaluate the radiator, and note any trouble signs, including leaking coolant or a crack. Also look at the coolant tanks for leaks.

Downhole tools

Check with the drill manufacturer to determine the factory spec outside diameter of the drill pipe. Then use a micrometer to measure the current OD, which will tell you the amount of wear. “If it’s been worn down more than 30 to 40 thousandths of an inch, then you’ll need to look at the cost of replacing the pipes,” Nichols says. “The thickness of the pipe is usually around a quarter inch, so if you take half of that away, it’s going to create problems, especially with all the bending forces these pipes go through.”

Backreamers come in several varieties, such as this 10-inch fluted unit, and may or may not be included with a used machine.

Determine how many drill pipes are being sold with unit, since including them is not always a given, and a set of pipes is expensive. The typical 10-foot drill pipe will cost between $300 to $400. With the box on the JT2020 containing 40 pipes, you would be looking at a potential $16,000 in additional costs if they needed replacing.

Check the condition of any beacon housing, bits and backreamers being sold with the machine. Backreamers are used on the pullback phase of a bore to enlarge the hole, so wear will show on both the teeth and the weldments.

Operational checks

The majority of the drill’s functions can be operated with a tethered ground drive system, or lanyard. “These are electronic, so make sure it’s stowed in it’s compartment and in good working condition,” Nichols advises.

Start the drill and listen to the engine, noting any unusual noises. Lower the stabilizers, making sure they can independently move up and down, which is critical for leveling the machine when you’re working on a hillside.

Move the anchoring system up and down, checking for excessive side-to-side motion in the augers and holders on each side. “It will move some,” Nichols says, “but you don’t want excess movement.”

Operate the pipe loader system, loading a pipe out of the box. Evaluate the machine’s rotation, thrust and pullback by rotating left then right, thrusting forward and back.

Get in the operator’s seat and repeat all evaluations. Working the control lever on the right, put the breakout wrench, or vise, through its paces. “Move the lever forward to thrust to make sure the front cylinder is working well, then move it left and right to see the second cylinder working,” Nichols says. Make sure all rocker switches on the control panel are working.

Also note if the previous owner has covers for the instrument panel. “The panel is water resistant, not water proof,” Nichols comments. “Rocker switches don’t like water.”

The on-board water pump, located behind the engine compartment, connects to the external mud mixing system, pumping drilling fluid downhole via the drill string. Check the pump’s hydraulic motor to see if it’s operating well, turns the pump and delivers water out the front of the drill pipe. Look for water leaks around the pump.

Call on experts

Don’t ignore the expertise of local drill dealers when investigating a possible buy, Nichols urges. He gets frequent calls about machines in his territory. Callers ask if he knows the machine, the owner, how regularly it was serviced, and whether or not the owner self performed maintenance.

“Directional drills have gotten to the point where there’s a lot of them out there, and they’ve come down in price in the past decade,” Nichols says. “You can usually get one back into the decent condition by spending $10,000 to $15,000, and have a machine that’s dependable.” EW

For a checklist of areas to inspect, go to equipmentworld.com/digital

Downhole tools

In addition to drill pipe, determine what, if any, backreamers are being sold with the machine. Note the wear on both the teeth and weldments on each backreamer. Also look at the wear on any beacon housing being sold with the unit.

Hydraulics

Always look for hydraulic leaks, usually located at O-rings, fittings and hydraulic lines.

Pipe loader

Operate the pipe loader system, making sure it smoothly loads and unloads pipe. Make sure the plastic liner is in place, and there are no hydraulic leaks.

Engine compartment

Look for leaks and examine the engine, fuel and air filters, noting when they’ve last been changed. Examine the radiator for leaking coolants or cracks.

Drill pipe

Measure the drill pipe’s outside diameter and check it against the manufacturer’s factory spec to determine the amount of wear. Make sure you know how many pipes – also called rods – are being sold with the drill.

Anchoring system

Make sure shafts are not cracked or bent, there are no hydraulic leaks and there’s no excessive movement when you push them left or right.

Operator’s station

Has the instrument panel been protected from the elements by a cover? Do all controls, gauges and switches work properly?

Tracks

Look at both the left and right track, examining the rollers, bearings, idlers, pins and drive sockets, looking for excessive wear. Look at the wear on the track cleats.

Determine whether the tracks need to be replaced.

Water pump

Examine the on-board pump’s hydraulic motor, and look for signs of water leaks.

Stabilizers

Check the stabilizers on each side, checking for hydraulic leaks on the cylinders. Examine the areas where the stabilizers attach to the frame for signs of stress.

Video Inspection

Go to equipmentworld.com/digital to view these videos or use the smart tag below to download them on to your smart phone.

Used Directional Drill Checklist

Make/model:

Engine make/model:

Number of hours:

Previous owner/application (if known)

Maintenance records?

Drill frame

General condition, alignment

Paint condition

Hydraulic leaks?

Cracks or welds?

Anchoring/stake down system

• Hydraulic leaks?

• Shafts straight?

• Excessive movement left and right?

Stabilizers

• Hydraulic leaks?

• Condition of bushings and pins

• Cylinder condition

• Any stress evident where stabilizers attach to the frame?

Track condition

• Rollers, bearings, idler, pins and drive sprocket wear

• Track cleat (or bar lug) wear

• Tensioned properly?

Carriage

• Hydraulic leaks?

• Rack and pinion:

Unusual wear rack and pinion wear patterns?

Undue wear?

Alignment

Pipeloading system

• Hydraulic leaks?

• Plastic liner in place?

• Alignment

• Vice wrenches

Operator’s station

• Seat condition

• Instrument panel cover?

Engine/hydraulics

Engine compartment

• Leaks?

• Smokes?

• Engine, fuel and air filter condition

• Engine, hydraulic oil levels

• Chaffing on hydraulic lines?

Hydraulics

• Pumps

• Motors

• Valves

• Hoses

Radiator

• Coolant level?

• Coolant leaks?

• Cracks?

On-board water pump

• Leaks?

• Cracks?

Downhole tools

Drill pipes

• Number

• Percentage of wear

• Replace?

• Number of drill pipe racks?

Backreamers, bits

• Wear?

• Replace?

Beacon housing

• Wear?

• Replace?

Operational checks

Engine noise?

Check the following with both the tethered ground drive controller and in the operator’s seat:

Stabilizers

• Move independently?

Stake down system

• Move augers up and down.

Excessive motion?

Drillling

• Load a drill pipe

• Rotate

• Thrust forward/back

• Rotate right

• Rotate left

• Operate breakout wrench vise

Controls

• Switches, gauges and levers working?

• Lights working?

• Check oil pressure

• On-board water pump operation

History/comments

Comments of previous owner or seller Detail any recent repairs and rebuilds and who did them Condition of maintenance records – available electronically? Note any repairs and estimated costs

Give the machine a thorough operational run-through, paying attention to shifting and brakes

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

New or used, articulated trucks are in strong demand right now across the country, so we were glad to get a short layover with a Volvo A40D at Aring Equipment, a Volvo Construction Equipment dealer just outside of Milwaukee. As part of Aring’s rental fleet, our inspection unit had 3,741 hours on it, and was out the door within an hour after our inspection, back at work in a variety of general construction applications.

Merle Coggins

Lending us his expertise in our inspection was Merle Coggins, Aring’s product trainer, and a 25-year veteran with the company who started out as a shop technician. He now trains those technicians, as well as supports his company’s field and sales forces. Using his practiced eye for details, Coggins took us around the A40D.

Starting off

“I always want a checklist to make sure I’m not missing anything,” says Coggins. (To view our handy list go to equipmentworld.com/digital.) Record the machine’s serial number and check the hours – make sure the hour meter is working and the condition of the machine matches the hours, noting that wear may be more severe in certain applications.

In addition to the checklist, come armed with an inspection arsenal: tire gauge, tire handbook for the specific brand, flashlight, oil sampling kit, measuring tape, shop rags and a digital camera. Use the latter to take note of any major oil leaks or damage, and to refresh your memory later on. And a second person comes in handy when inspecting diff locks and articulation joint movement during the operational phase of the check.

Then take a tour around the machine. Coggins looks at its general condition: Is it clean? Does it need to be repainted? Are there any leaks that are immediately apparent? Take note of any dents, cracks or welds on the cab, hitch, frame and body. “One area that may have cracks is on the frame where the drop box is mounted,” he says.

As you walk around, check all cylinders for worn hoses and seals, leaks and damage. Look for any serious dents or damage in the belly pan area. Check the brake master cylinder for leaks and the brake shoes or pads for wear. Look at the brake wear indicators on each wheel hub – if the wear indicator pin is flush with the stud head, then it’s time for a brake job.

Under the hood

The A40D has handy swing-down front service platform that gives easy access to under-hood components. Here, check for oil or fluid leaks. Then note the engine and transmission fluid levels. Pull the dipstick and look at the cleanliness of the engine oil. Red flags include oil that’s black, indicating it hasn’t been changed, a possible sign of lax maintenance practices. Oil that’s milky shows the presence of water or antifreeze, the result of bad O-rings or a leaking oil cooler. If the oil reservoir is overfull, you may have a leaking fuel injector.

Note the hours and dates written on all filters. Make sure they correlate to the machine’s hour meter reading.

Check the level in the coolant reservoir and look for leaks and damaged hoses. Open the radiator cap and check for bubbles, which indicate exhaust pressure in the system, and the possibility of a cracked cylinder head. Make sure the radiator is not packed with dirt or damaged from an accident. On the charge air cooler side, make sure all brackets are tight, and there are no damaged fins.

With the engine running, remove the engine filler cap and check for blow-by, or excessive crankcase pressure, which indicates worn rings. “See how much oil and vapors are being expelled,” Coggins advises. “There will always be a little bit, but if there’s a lot, it needs to be looked at.” If a low-hour engine shows blow-by problems, remove the oil filter and inspect it for wear particles and contamination.

Body/rear area

Further back, if the truck body cushions are tight against the frame instead of showing a good amount of rubber, they will need to be replaced. “The rubber blocks get squashed down in use and the rubber layers may start to separate,” Coggins says. Also look for cracks where the frame carries the load and in the suspension area.

Inspect the entire frame for cracks, welds or signs of excessive damage. Carefully look at hoses, seals and rods of all cylinders. Do any need to be replaced?

Get in the cab, start the engine and raise the body, then put the body safety device in place to hold it in the raised position before getting underneath. The truck is now in an ideal position for you to get a close up of everything underneath the rear body.

Check the body floor and sides for wear and note if it has a liner. Does it need to be relined? Examine the hoist cylinders for damage. Look for leakage on the cylinder seals, and inspect the cylinder rod plating for chips, cracks and scratches. Observe the bushings at the top and bottom of the cylinders to see if there’s any looseness or play in them.

Inspect the axle rubber springs for cracking and separation.

Examine the underside of the body, the rear suspension system, axles, final drives and rear tires. The rubber spring blocks should be inspected for cracking and separation. If the rubber comes apart, it will allow the axle to move freely, something you want to prevent.

Check for cracks and welds on the mainframe. On the rear suspension, look at the rubber elements, frame, cross stays, bogie beams and tie rods, looking for leaks, excessive damage and broken components.

Examine final drives for leaks. If something concerns you, drain oil and check for cuttings and pull the cover and inspect gears.

Disengage the safety device and lower the truck body. Are the back pivot pins well greased? “If they are dry looking, I’d be concerned they hadn’t been lubed properly,” Coggins says.

Cab/operational checks

Start the engine and check all lights and gauges. Make sure the air conditioning, heater, lights, horn and backup alarms work. “If the gauges didn’t work, or there was a warning light or a broken switch, I’d be concerned it hadn’t been well maintained,” Coggins states.

The tires on our A40D had some nicks and cuts, but none of them were severe enough to merit concern.

Look around the cab: What condition is the seat in? Is it fully adjustable? Is there any broken or cracked glass? Is it clean?

Now it’s time to put the machine through its paces. At this point, it’s handy to have someone else operating the machine so you can observe what’s happening as you go through the operational checks.

Test each speed and shift in each gear, checking for unusual noises in the power train and how smooth it shifts. Check the differential to see if it functions properly in drive modes (the A40D has five):

• 4-wheel drive, differential locks disengaged.

• 4-wheel drive and transverse differential lock on front axle.

• 6-wheel drive and longitudinal differential lock.

• 6-wheel drive, longitudinal differential lock and differential lock on front axle.

• 6-wheel drive, all differential locks engaged.

Note any unusual noises or abnormal operation and check the transmission clutch pressures and compare them to the machine’s specifications.

While you’re underneath the machine, look for any hanging wires, broken springs, loose bolts or bad bearings. Caked, oil mud signals a leak.

Next, raise and lower the bed and time the cycle. Compare the cycle time with specs for a new machine – on the A40D, for example, new specs are 12 seconds up and 10 seconds down. As the bed lowers, check the float and hold operations. Steer the front wheels back and forth in a rocking motion to check for any sloppiness in steering system pins and bushings and in the articulation joint. “If there was a lot of slop in the articulation joint’s pins and bushings, it could be labor intensive to replace,” Coggins says.

Test the service brakes by holding the brake pedal down and trying to drive through the brakes in third and fourth gear. The brakes should be able to hold the truck. Stop the unit three or four times while going in forward and reverse to check the brake system pressure, noting how fast it drops and if it recovers. “This tells me how well the brakes hold under load,” Coggins adds. “And if I had a steep hill to park it on, I would check the parking brakes as well.” At higher speeds, check the retarder to see if it’s functioning properly.

Listen to the engine: Is it running smoothly? Are there any misfires or belts squealing? “Sometimes you can hear an exhaust leak,” Coggins says. “I’ll also listen for any whining in the hydraulic pump system.” Look for unusual smoke from the exhaust system. If there are odd noises or abnormal operation, and you want to investigate further, check the clutch pressure, drain the oil and inspect for cuttings or wear particles.

Tires

When you’re checking tires, make sure they are all the same size – mismatched tires wear on drive trains. Check each tire’s tread with a tire gauge and compare it with new tire specs to determine the remaining tread. Look at tire pressures and verify there are no issues with the rim of the wheel. Also look for missing wheel lug nuts and bolts. And as simple as it sounds, be sure to check each tire – just because one or two are in good shape doesn’t mean they all are.

“If there are signs of uneven tire wear, I’d start to look at the suspension more carefully, and see if there are any signs of axle misalignment,” Coggins says, who also notes he wouldn’t shy away from recaps if they’re in good condition.

Articulation joint

In the hitch area, look at the oil level and check for cracks and welds. The rubber bushing at the bottom of the articulation joint that connects with the A-arm will get smaller as it deteriorates. “In severe cases, it will actually contact the frame,” Coggins notes, “so I look for signs of rubber peeling out, which tells me it’s starting to come apart.” Coggins also notes any broken bolts around the joints.

Raise the body and lower it, checking it for movement in the articulation joint. Move the steering cylinders and check for pin and bushing wear in this area. Inspect for rust.

Front suspension system

The A40D has a three-point A-frame suspension system in the front and the back. “Get underneath the machine so you can see everything,” Coggins says. Check the front suspension’s frame, cross stay, shock absorbers, rubber springs and spherical bushings.

When examining the articulation joint, look closely at the condition of the bottom rubber bushing. A worn bushing will have to be replaced.

While he’s underneath the machine, Coggins notes any hanging electrical wires, broken springs, loose bolts, bad bearings and any caked oily mud – the sure sign of a leak developing. It’s in this area that you can observe any damage that may have occurred from running over obstacles.

Final notes

Ask about the history of machine – including past owners, past applications and what the machine was hauling – and whether service records are available. And check out the computer records on newer models. On the A40D, for example, you can check MATRIS machine tracking information records, which will give you the entire life of the machine – including fuel consumption rates and any error codes – on a computer readout. Cost out any required repairs. And if you’re seriously considering buying machine, be sure to take an oil sample.

To print a handy checklist to use during your inspection, visit our digital issue at www.EquipmentWorld.com/digital.

USED ARTICULATED HAULER LIST

Make/model:

Year:

Serial number:

Hours:

Previous owner/application:

Does it need to cleaned and/or painted?

Engine

Make/model Serial number How does it start? Hours since overhaul Oil leaks? Oil pressure? Condition of engine oil Overfull on dipstick? Engine power Any unusual noises or misses? Radiator condition Charge air cooler condition Antifreeze condition Blow-by check Fuel system Oil analysis results

Transmission

Leaks? Condition of transmission oil Fluid level Filter condition Condition of hoses and lines Any slippage during operation? Operates easily in all speeds, forward and reverse? High/low dropbox Differential locks, test in all ranges:

• 4-wheel drive, diff locks disengaged

• 4-wheel drive w. transverse diff lock on front axle

• 6-wheel drive and longitudinal diff lock

• 6-wheel drive, longitudinal diff lock and diff lock on front axle.

• 6-wheel drive, all diff locks engaged

Drive line/U joints Torque converter

Brakes

Operational checks:

• Do the breaks hold the truck when you test them by pressing the brake pedal down and trying to drive through the brakes in 3rd and 4th gear?

• Move forward and stop the unit three or four times to check how fast the brake system pressure drops and if it recovers.

• Check emergency brake by applying the brake and trying to drive through 4th gear

Leaks in the master cylinder? Wear on brake shoes or pads Parking brake

Retarder function properly?

Hydraulics

Leaks?

Worn hoses?

Pumps

Tank

Unusual noises from the hydraulic pump or air in the system?

Condition of cylinders

• Hoist

• Steering

Body lift and return cycle time

Final drives/planetaries

Leaks?

Unusual noises?

Articulation hitch

Any cracks or welds?

Pin and bushing wear

Lubricated?

Any rust?

Pivot point nut tight?

Operational checks:

• Drop the body from the raised position and check for movement

• Move the steering cylinders and check for pin and bushing wear

Suspension system

Front suspension, condition of:

• Shock absorbers

• Rubber springs

• Spherical bushings

Rear suspension, condition of:

• Rubber elements

• Bogie beams

• Tie rods

Cab

General condition

Gauges and controls:

• Heater

• AC

• Wipers

• Lights

• Electronic monitoring system

• Back-up alarm

• Horn

Mirrors

Glass

Doors/handles

Seat upholstery

Seat fully adjustable?

Frame/body

Cracks or welds?

Steps and grab bars

Hood/front panels

Any damage or dents in the body?

Body wear

Belly pan condition

Condition of guards

Fuel tank condition

Liner condition (if applicable)

Tailgate condition (if applicable)

Tires

Condition of wheels, hubs and rims

Any retreads?

History/Comments

Comments of previous owner or seller

Detail any recent repairs and rebuilds and who did them

Condition of maintenance records – available electronically?

Note any repairs and estimated costs

Pay attention to undercarriages, air intake and exhaust systems

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

Compact track loaders have gained enormous popularity in the past decade, giving contractors the ability to get onto jobs that normally would have kept a wheeled skid steer on the sidelines. We were fortunate to be able to grab a 1,900-pound-rated-operating-capacity Bobcat T190 between owners. With 1,408 hours, it had just come out of a landscaper’s fleet and would probably end up with another landscaper in its second life.

Our inspectors estimated this track still had 65 percent of its life left, or about 700 hours, provided it worked in a dirt application in its second life.

Two experts were on hand to review this vertical-lift-path machine: Jody Knox, sales manager, and John Howland, president, both with Loader Services & Equipment, the Bobcat dealer in Pelham and Huntsville, Alabama. First up: the walk around.

Walk around

A walk around will give you an idea of the machine’s general condition, and allow you take note of any thing you want to explore in detail later. (Go to www.equipmentworld.com/digital to download our handy checklist to take notes as you do your review.) It’s also good to have a camera along so you can refresh your memory about any specific areas.

Take a look inside the cab. Are there any signs of excessive wear, such as a torn seat, frayed seat belt, cracked or broken glass? If the machine’s interior shows signs of mistreatment, it could be a sign that other items have been neglected, or that the machine was in a severe use application. Also note whether the non-skid material on the steps is intact.

Examine the condition of the track on both sides of the machine. Knox estimates our inspection machine had about 65 percent of its track life left, showing no major cuts or gashes. Still, remaining track life will depend how the second owner uses the machine, notes Knox.

Most service items on the T190 are in this rear area. Check all filter service hours/date, electrical wiring and battery connections. Make sure shrouds are in place and there are no oil leaks.

As you continue your walk around, look for hairline cracks and non-factory welds on the frame, especially on the loader arms, which get the brunt of everyday loads and stresses. Remember that lift arms are a safety item, so check that any repair welds in these areas have been done correctly. The rear engine access door is another area to check, especially for dents that go beyond normal wear and tear. And check all lift and bucket tilt cylinders and hydraulic hoses for damage or leaks.

Interior compartments

Open up the swing-out tailgate. The first check is the door itself, says Howland. “Make sure the door and latch are good and sound, because you don’t want the door flying open,” he says.

On the T190, the rear compartment is where many of the filters are located, plus access to the battery, starter and 61-horsepower engine. Look throughout the compartment for oil leaks, and make sure all shrouds are in place. “Most oil leaks come from hoses,” Knox says. Check the level and color of the engine and hydraulic oils.

“Your air filter is the key to life on these machines because they run in the dirt,” Howland says. Unscrew the filter housing and check both filters inside for cleanliness. Pull out the filters and see if there’s any dirt in the housing. “I’ve pulled them out before and noticed there wasn’t a washer on the wingnut that fastens the cover to the filter housing, and so the air was just pulling through that area,” Howland says.

Note the date and hour marked on the engine, hydraulic and fuel filters, which typically indicates the last service. Check them against the machine’s number of hours and the recommended service intervals. “If they don’t match up, I would question whether the previous owner kept up on his service intervals,” Howland says.

Check out the radiator compartment, making sure it’s clean and free from debris and not damaged by people trying to clean it with a pressure washer. Check the glycol level.

Examine the electrical wiring to ensure it’s not worn, and is clean and tied up properly.

Make sure there is no black soot on the back door, a sign the exhaust system may have been damaged at one time. “If you have hot exhaust leaking in the back of the engine compartment, you could damage your radiator or wiring,” Howland says. “If you let the exhaust melt your wiring or heat up air filter intakes, then you’ve really got a problem.”

Another interior checkpoint on the T190 is underneath the cab, accessed by undoing two bolts and lifting the cab up and back. In this area, inspect all hydraulic hoses and control valves for leaks and dirt.

Knox recommends that you get your dealer’s mechanic to give any machine you’re giving serious consideration to a thorough going over. “It doesn’t cost much, and it could be the best money you ever spent,” he says.

Undercarriage

On each side of the machine, take special note of the wear on the sprocket, idler and rollers. Well-worn sprockets get pointed edges. Idlers, which usually have a smooth wear surface, will start to show cut grooves in the center, especially on the rear idler. And while you’re operating the machine later on, note any roller squeaking or wiggling.

“Compact track loaders aren’t like skid steers,” Knox says. “You can’t use the bucket to lift the front of the track off the ground when back dragging. Doing that will definitely give you idler wear.”

If the tread shows signs of cuts or gashes, or of being bent, likely because of something it ran over, you might have to replace it. Machines that run primarily in soft dirt will show less tread wear than those run on pavement or hard rocks. Knox estimated that there were approximately 700 additional hours of use on our T190’s treads – provided its second life was primarily in dirt.

Another cost consideration when you look at a used loader is whether your jobs will require the extra cost of a specialized tread. Knox says the T190’s standard 12.6-inch C-pattern lug track should meet most needs, however.

And make sure someone hasn’t put a new tread on an undercarriage with a worn out sprocket, Howland says. “It will shorten the life of the track.”

Bucket

Since replacing a standard bucket can cost in the neighborhood of $1,000, inspect it thoroughly. Our machine had a cutting edge in good shape. The machine you’re considering may have teeth, however. “Sometimes we’ll see them with cutting edges that are half mooned out,” Knox says. “If you don’t pay attention to the wear on the teeth or cutting edge, it can get into the structure of the bucket.”

Detach the bucket from the machine, pulling the levers of the coupler up, checking if they work properly, and there are no bends or fractures in the area. The coupler is critical since these loaders use a variety of attachments. And check the step indentions on the bucket for hairline fractures.

Operational checks

Get inside the cab, turn on the engine, and note if the starter turns over properly. Write down the machine hours. Operate all interior lights and instrument controls, including heating and air conditioning (if the machine has it). Does the seat belt extend/retract and click in place smoothly? Is the seat bar operational and still serve its secondary function as an armrest? Operate the front windshield wiper and washer on enclosed cabs.

Test the emergency engine/hydraulic shutdown, which allows you to lower the loader arms slowly to the ground and exit the machine safely if the engine dies or hydraulics fail. To do this in the T190, raise the loader’s arms, then pull and twist the shutdown lever red knob located at the right side of the seat.

Go through several lift and dump cycles, noting any hesitations or play in the bushings. Get a good feel for how the controls work – are they responding properly? Do they center up in neutral? (Although our machine had two hand lever controls, the T190 can also come with joysticks.) Note how the pedals work, and how tight everything is. When driving the machine, make sure it’s not pulling to one side.

Tilt the bucket down and push down, noting if there’s any play in the bucket pins and linkage. Make sure the auxiliary hydraulics are working properly. “Typically on a T190, if the boom and bucket are responding like they’re supposed to and moving at the right speed, the auxiliary hydraulics pump is performing,” Howland says. “But go ahead and dead head the hydraulics, so you can hear it trying to cut on.” (On the T190, the same pump is used for lift, tilt and auxiliary hydraulics.)

As you take the machine through its paces, note the seat’s suspension. Does it adjust properly? Will it make a long day in the machine comfortable?

Check the hydraulic drive operation after you’ve had the engine running for at least 10 minutes. Also have a second person go back to the engine compartment to check for exhaust and oil leaks.

Add it up

Review your notes, paying attention specifically to where certain areas will require either repair or total replacement. Get an estimate on each item and add it to the asking price … or use it to negotiate a lower price. EW

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

Machine make/model:

Hours:

Serial number:

Bucket size:

Exterior frame/bucket/cylinders

Note condition of the following:

• Bucket cutting edge

• Bucket structure/wear plate

• Rear door

• Rear lights

• Cab handles

• Cab glass

• Boom cylinders

• Tilt cylinders

• Hydraulic lines, hose and fittings

Overall appearance:

Undercarriage

Note condition of the following on the right side of the machine:

• Track

• Idler

• Rollers

• Sprocket

• Axle seals

Note condition of the following on the left side of the machine:

• Track

• Idler

• Rollers

• Sprocket

• Axle seals

Internal checklist

Are the auxiliary couplers working?

Engine oil leaks?

Engine fuel leaks?

Engine smoking?

Oil cooler leaks?

Vent tube smoke?

Radiator leaks?

Radiator hose leaks?

Water pump leaking?

Are all shrouds in place?

Note the condition of the following:

• Engine oil level/condition

• Engine belts

• Hydraulic oil level/condition

• Outer/inner air filters

• Radiator

• Coolant

• Battery/electrical connections

• Air filter/air intake system

• Muffler

• Flex pipe

Operational checklist

Is the backup alarm operational?

Drive controls return to neutral?

Any hesitation when drive controls engaged?

Note any problems with the following:

• Lift cycle

• Boom drift under load

• Tilt drift

• Tilt leaking

• Steering adjustment

• Bucket breakout

• Lift breakout

• Right turn

• Left turn

• Smoking during turn

• Seat belt

• Safety bar

• Parking brakes

• Cab lights

• Cab instruments

• Levers/pedals/joysticks

• Emergency engine/hydraulic exit system

• Cylinder safety devices

Wear item inspection

Condition of the following:

• Tilt pin bushings

• Lift pin bushings

• Boom arm cracks

• H-frame cracks

• Coupler bushings

• Coupler levers

• Coupler frame

Linkage pins and the center pivot are key inspection points

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

This article is intended as a handy checklist of considerations when buying a used wheel loader, not as an all-inclusive used equipment guide. Visit our digital issue at www.EquipmentWorldDigital.com for a handy inspection checklist.

Dennis Nalon, used equipment manager with Walter Payton Power Equipment, Lebanon, Indiana, likes to start his used loader inspections by getting the general lay of the land. “I go around the machine and note any basic problems with tires, sheet metal, windows and linkages,” he says. “I look for things that jump out, then I’ll go into specific details.”

Dennis Nalon has 11 years experience inspecting used machinery.

There are a number of items that would raise immediate red flags in this initial inspection: cuts in a tire sidewall or tread, cracks in the wheel area, obvious cylinder and hose leaks, missing grease zerks, excessive wear on the bucket, and cracks, welds and plates on the frame. These would all be signs, Nalon says, the loader has been through some hard times.

Always check the hour meter and, if possible, have an inspection partner along who’s knowledgeable about loaders. Our inspection machine is a 2007 Doosan DL300 with 650 hours on it. That may not seem like many hours, but this rental machine in Walter Payton’s fleet has spent the majority of its life in demolition applications – hence the foam-filled tires and underneath plating.

Tires and wheels

The significant cut on our machine’s left front tire is not the concern it would be if the machine had regular pneumatic tires. With regular tires, however, there are several things to watch out for in addition to cuts, all of which could be safety hazards. A ripple on the sidewall could indicate there’s been a tearing of the interior liner. Check tire pressures and verify there’s no issues with the rim of the wheel. Also look for missing wheel lug nuts or bolts.

These scratches are more indicative of the demolition use our inspection machine went through than the 650 hours on the meter.

When you check the tread on all tires, note the raised wear width in the center of the tire, Nalon says. When that is worn down, you’ll want to pay closer attention to getting it replaced. Nalon says he would advise replacing the tire after it gets another 1/8-inch past the point the wear width has gotten even with the surrounding tread.

“Look on the back side of wheels and tires to make sure there’s no oil or debris that’s caught up in there, especially in a machine used in demolition,” Nalon says.

And don’t forget to inspect all four tires. One tire’s condition – whether good or bad – doesn’t necessarily mean the other three tires are in the same shape, or even the same size.

Engine compartment

Do the usual fluid checks, looking at the condition and level of the engine oil, antifreeze and hydraulic oil. Check the belts for wear and possible replacement. As always, be on the lookout for leaks, both around the engine and the radiator. “You never want to start the engine if you see an oil or antifreeze leak or a belt that’s starting to come apart,” Nalon says. “First replace the belt and determine where the leaks are coming from, then you don’t have to worry about a belt flying and hitting someone, or a leak spraying oil and causing a fire.”

One critical area to inspect: the center pivot, or articulation joint. Make sure there’s little up and down movement in this area.

Look at the air cleaner indicator to see if the air cleaner needs to be changed. Make sure the air inlet to the turbocharger is intact and there’s no tears the tube. If tears are present, replace it immediately, since dust bypassing the air filter could get into the engine and cause an engine failure.

Examine the filters: do they look like they’ve been changed? Pull out the air filters and check them.

When you run the engine, listen for noises and observe the smoke coming out of the exhaust. Look at the dashboard indicators to see if there are any diagnostic issues with the engine.

Transmission

The transmission is located at the center of the wheel loader, underneath the cab. Check the transmission oil dipstick and look at the level indicator to make sure there’s sufficient oil. Look for leaks and take care of them before you start the machine.

Hydraulics

Check all cylinders and hoses for leaks and try to determine each leak’s origin. Other areas to look for leaks include the hydraulic pump, the area where the drive shafts go into the rear ends, and axle seals.

Hoses are susceptible to leaks, especially at the crimp fittings and at the O-ring face seal fittings. Perform a pressure check on the system to make sure you’re getting the pressure you need.

Linkage

The machine’s front half has several pin areas that you want to pay close attention to – including the boom pins, tilt cylinder pins, tilt rod end pins and boom cylinder pins. Note the condition of each of these pins.

During your operational checks, it’s good to have a second knowledgeable person observe if there’s any excessive sideways movement in these pin areas.

There are also a lot of grease zerks in this area. Make sure each zerk is in place and shows signs of being recently greased.

Center pivot

“This is an area where the machine’s pivot bearings must be greased well and often,” Nalon says. Make sure all the grease fittings are present, are intact, and the top and bottom pins are vertically aligned.

When you’re operating the bucket, have your inspection partner observe the top and bottom pins of the center pivot and note if there’s excessive up and down movement, which could indicate wear.

Bucket

Determine the bucket’s yardage – usually a matter of calling up a local dealer that carries the particular make of bucket. Inspect the bucket’s digging edge and make sure the bottom wear plates haven’t worn through. If the digging edge comes to a point, then you’ll need to figure the cost of a replacing the edge into your final calculations. Inspect the teeth for wear and possible replacement. Our machine had a heavy duty Geith bucket on it, and seemed to have endured its previous use with no observable major wear.

Structural

Check the frame for any cracks, welds or plates. At the back of the machine, look at the radiator grill to make sure there are no cracks, and that the air intake inlets for the air cleaner are not damaged. “Our machine has a lot of bumps and bruises on it,” Nalon says, “but that’s just because of the demolition jobs it’s been on.”

Pins and corners are also stress points, as well as any area that’s been factory welded. The steerage linkage is also susceptible to cracks.

And examine the underneath of the machine, looking for puncture holes or any other damage caused by debris.

Cab

Now it’s time to step up into the cab, and as you do look at the condition of the access ladder to ensure the rubber on the bottom reinforced rung has no cracks, nor are the metal steps bent out of shape in a way that would make it difficult to safely access the cab.

During your walkaround, you would have verified that all lights – including blinkers, safety lights and flashers – are intact. Now’s the time to check out if they actually work.

First check out the windows and mirrors, making sure there are no cracks, missing panes or mirrors, or a mirror mount that’s out of adjustment. Also check for any cracks on the gauges. Sit in the seat and work all the adjustments. Does it easily slide back and forward, and up and down? Are there any rips in the seat?

Turn on the machine and check all the gauges to determine if everything is functioning correctly. Work all buttons and levers, and turn on all lights and flashers. Work the windshield wipers and radio and make sure the heat and air conditioning work.

Operational

The engine should have warmed up while you checked out the cab items. Now is the time to put the machine through its paces. Verify the brakes work properly and the throttle works. If conditions allow, put the machine under load. Go through several bucket load and dump cycles, noting any hesitations or jerkiness. Put the machine in forward and reverse in all gears, listening for any loud noises. How does the machine respond to abrupt forward-reverse commands? “The transmission should go into gear firmly,” Nalon says, “and there shouldn’t be any slippage.”

Hopefully you’ll have enough room to fully work the loader, putting it a operation that will be similar to the way you plan to use it. And make sure the back-up alarm works.

Final checks

Whether you’re looking at a machine that’s on a dealer’s lot or being sold by its owner, ask the seller several questions, including how the machine was used and whether any components have been rebuilt, replaced or had major repairs.

The condition of a used machine depends more on the care it has gotten rather than actual hours, Nalon says. “I’ve seen machines with 600 hours, and you’d think they had 6,000 hours on them. It really depends on the people who use and maintain it.”

Ask for the service records and oil analysis history, and look for details. “This will tell you they not only did the service but what they actually did, such as changing the oil in the planetaries or inspecting the brakes,” Nalon says. And maintenance records can help you overcome appearance prejudices, since as Nalon pointed out, appearance sometimes doesn’t tell the whole story. EW

Used wheel loader inspection checklist

General

Make/model Number of hours Serial number Engine make/model Previous owner/application Service/oil analysis history available? Options on machine

Bucket/attachments

• Make/yardage • Type of bucket • Condition of cutting edge • Tooth wear • Any cracks?

Condition of tires, wheel area

• Any sidewall damage? • Any retreads? • Cracks on the rim? • Are lug nuts or bolts all there? • Left front tire % of tread remaining • Right front tire % of tread remaining • Left rear tire % of tread remaining • Right rear tire % of tread remaining

Axles

• Condition of front drive line • Condition of rear drive line • Differential lock • Axle mounts front • Axle mounts rear

Structural condition/overall appearance

• Cracks? • Dents? • Welds and/or plates? • Condition of paint/decals • Steps Cylinders

Any leaks on:

• Boom cylinders? • Tilt cylinders? • Steering cylinders?

Pin areas

Inspect the following areas for movement and note condition:

• Boom pins • Tilt cylinder pins • Tilt rod end pins • Boom cylinder pins • Lift rod end pins • Tilt link pins • Top bucket pins • Bottom bucket pins • Bellcrank pins

Engine compartment

• Hours since engine overhaul? • Leaks • Oil condition, level • Condition of exhaust • Exhaust smoke color • Fan belts • Coolant • Radiator • Air cleaner

Transmission

• Type of transmission • Number of forward/reverse speeds • Shifting performance • Moves in all gears • Slippage in gears? • Transmission oil leaks • Oil appearance, level • Clutch operation

Brakes

• Overall operation • Parking brake • Brake control • Linings • Air system • Valves and lines

Hydraulic system

• Leaks? • Oil appearance, level • Hydraulic performance • Oil cooler • Oil cooler fan • Condition of hydraulic hoses

Cab

• Enclosed or canopy? • Condition of ROPS • Cab doors • Seat condition • Seat belt • Arm rests • Horn • Mirrors • Floor mat • Heaters/controls • AC/controls • Windows/glass • Steering operation • Control levels • Gauges in place and working • Knobs/switches • Fuel gauge • Radio • Lights • Backup alarm • Operators manual present and in good shape?

While a second-life grader may not be the precision machine required on some jobs, a well-maintained machine still has years of useful life ahead of it.

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

“I’ve taught all my guys to go through a machine’s power train first and then go on to the working tools, which on a grader is primarily the blade,” says Max Miller, used equipment manager and branch manager, Murphy Tractor & Equipment, Gering, Nebraska. And with 30 years of experience, Miller has taught a number of people the fine points of how to thoroughly inspect used machines.

Max Miller

And so we head first to the engine compartment on our inspection machine, a 1997 John Deere 770CH. Miller pulls the engine oil dipstick and notes there are no problems that can be seen with the naked eye with either the oil cleanliness or level. (In addition to the visual inspection, always get an oil analysis report.) If there is discoloration, it could mean the machine has engine issues. A milky substance would indicate the presence of water in the crankcase, which could be the sign of a blown head gasket.

Next Miller checks for leaks. “Everywhere there’s a gasket there’s an opportunity for a leak,” he says, so there are a number of areas to be checked, including between the valve cover and the head, the head and the block, the block and the intercooler and the block and the turbocharger. Other places for potential leaks in the engine compartment include the oil pan, transfer pump, fuel injection pump, around fuel supply lines, water pump and exhaust manifold. While in the compartment, also look at the engine belts to determine if they need replacing.

Make sure blade wear hasn’t gotten into the bolt hole area, which can be an expensive repair.

Also check coolant, transmission and hydraulic fluids and take note of all fluid levels, Miller says. “If they are all low or overfull, that’s suspicious,” he says. Coolant should be clear and clean of any corrosion or oil.

While the radiator is cold, examine the condition of the upper and lower mounts on the radiator and whether there any leaks in the top and lower tanks. Make sure the fins are clean and intact, the core is in good condition and note any hose leaks. Look for any signs of coolant leaks in frame. Coolant leaks can also show up as chalky deposits on the radiator seams.

And before you get into the cab to do your operational checks; walk around the machine and look for any serious signs of damage or abuse including sheet metal dents, plates or welds, cut tire sidewalls or broken glass.

Operational checks

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Check the oil pressure gauge to make sure it’s operating correctly. “Look for smoke and if there’s smoke, note the color,” Miller says. White means there’s coolant in the engine, blue smoke means it’s burning too much oil and black smoke is an indication of excess diesel. All require further investigation.

The axle pivot joint bears a lot of stress, so look for looseness in the pins and bushings.

While waiting for the engine to warm up, look over the general condition of the cab. Are all gauges working properly? Can you quickly adjust the seat to your frame? Are there any problems with the glass? We’ll go over the cab in further detail later on, but this is a good chance to see if anything jumps out.

Also listen to the engine. Is it making any unusual noises? “Ticks always turn into knocks,” Miller says. “A noise never goes away in an engine. It either gets repaired or it gets worse.” And remember that today’s cleaner burning engines have more complicated air- intake systems. “If there’s a leak, it will be obvious when you crank the machine up because it will make a loud whistling sound,” Miller says. “You’ll also have a lot more smoke because you’re not getting air to the engine.”

Miller likes to encourage prospective buyers to put the machine through its paces. The 770CH has eight forward and eight reverse speeds. If there’s room, take it out in an open area and shift it through each gear. Note if there are any hesitations or skipped gears – both would prompt further investigation of the transmission. If you can’t move the machine, run it through all of its gears several times while in place to make sure it engages smoothly in each. Test the brakes and backup alarms.

Once the grader is warmed up, cycle through all the hydraulic control valves in the cab to make sure they’re working properly. Watch for quick, smooth responses from the hydraulic system.

Engines and transmissions are expensive repairs – usually around $10,000 to $15,000 – so the overall worth of the machine becomes a critical factor when considering replacement. “It doesn’t make sense to put $15,000 into a machine that’s worth $20,000,” Miller notes.

But graders are hardy work horses. Most will give you 8,000 to 12,000 hours before you have to rebuild or replace a major component. “We see lots of machines that have a total life of 30,000 hours,” Miller says.

Circle and moldboard area

Circle wear points are critical. “All it takes is an eighth of an inch here and there, and all of the sudden you’re 3⁄8 of an inch out of alignment,” Miller says. “That won’t work when you’re trying to get within a tenth of an inch on a grade.” Miller likes the nylon shim system on Deere grader circles, which can be easily replaced with a 9⁄16-inch wrench. “They took what used to be an all-day job and reduced it to about two hours,” he says. Note the wear on these shims, or wear strips. Expect to see more wear strip wear on the front side of the circle than on the back.

Look at the condition of the drive gear and pinion seals on the circle, and check for cracks and welds.

Examine the ease of rotation by the circle drive motor, and the condition of the drive gear and pinion seals. Are there any cracks or welds on the circle? How many circle shoes need replacing? Check the tightness of the ball sockets and draft ball.

Next check the stirrup arm joints. These joints are commonly loose on used machines – and expensive to repair. If there’s play in this joint, it allows the lift cylinders to move up and down, which in turn moves your blade up and down, decreasing grading accuracy.

There are a number of joints and cylinders in this area to inspect, including the cylinders to the circle and frame, and the draft frame to the main frame. “You’ll notice that graders usually have ball joints because they give you flexibility in such operations as swinging the blade out 90 degrees, plus they last a lot longer,” Miller says. Look for looseness between the ball joint and the cap. And all cylinders should be dry.

Sometimes the one-way saddle cylinder will leak, dropping oil on to the circle, which can get into a circle’s wear components, taking the grader’s shims out faster. “The dryer a machine is, the longer everything will last,” Miller says. “The other problem with a leaky hydraulic cylinder is that if oil is coming out, dirt is getting in, contaminating your hydraulic system.”

Miller determined the rear wheels on our inspection machine had about 50 percent of tread remaining.

Make sure the moldboard, or blade, hasn’t worn to the point the wear has extended into the bolt holes where the cutting edges tie on. Some owners don’t change their cutting edges quick enough and they start wearing against the base of the blade, creating an expensive repair.

More on joints

One joint that can be commonly missed in an inspection is the axle pivot on the front of the machine. If the bearings are loose, it will allow the front axle to move up and down, which in turn moves the entire machine up and down, and decreases your grading accuracy. Also look at the steering pins and cylinders. “Front axles are a high wear item on a grader,” Miller explains. “They steer all the time and carry a lot of weight and they’re against the load of the blade. To rebuild an axle will cost anywhere from $6,000 to $10,000 dollars, so you want to check all the joints for tightness.”

Dirt can pack into the wheels on rear tandem drives, taking axle seals out. The 770CH tandems looked good, however.

Next check the rear tandem drive axles. “If you run in the dirt a lot, dirt will get up in here and pack in these wheels and take the seal out and you could get a leak on the axle seal,” Miller says. Just look inside the wheel. If there’s anything accumulating on the inside of the wheel, you probably have an oil leak.

The articulation joint – which allows the back end of the machine to turn behind the cab, making sharper turns – is critical to inspect. If it gets loose, it could allow the tractor to have too much up and down movement, affecting your ability to precision grade. “It’s typically replaced after 10,000 hours, so it’s a job that’s due on this machine,” Miller says. If the problem is caught before it has to be line bored, it will cost around $5,000, but add another $3,000 if line boring is required.

In the cab

“You don’t think a seat is important, but it is,” Miller asserts. “If you’re in it all day long, you want something that’s going to support you.” So make sure all seat functions – including the arm rest adjustments – easily work.

Other quick-to-irritate items include an out-of-adjustment control console, leaking valves in the cab floor and non-working wipers.

Glass is also critical. “You don’t want to drive with a pitted windshield in the sun,” Miller says, “and you want a clean view to the circle and blade.” Check out the front glass sections that go down to the cab floor, since they’re susceptible to pitting from rocks thrown up by the front wheels. Our inspection machine had a wiper path on the glass. “A good operator would want a new windshield,” Miller comments.

Other cab inspection items:

• Make sure the door seals correctly, so heat and air conditioning stays in the cab. Also check that the door latch keeps the door open when you want it to be open.

• All control levers should operate smoothly.

• Check all mirrors, gauges, pedals and steps – and don’t forget the seat belt.

• Work the heat and air conditioning and check whether all air flow vents are intact.

• All of the following should be in working order: flashers, lights, wipers, washers, turn signals, defroster fans, accelerator and decelerator.

Match tandem tires

“Everyone gets hung up on tires, which amazes me, because they are the easiest things to replace,” Miller says. “Some people will miss the mechanical stuff that might cost them thousands of dollars, and concentrate on the tires. I tell people to buy the type and tread of tire they like. Get the mechanical stuff right and then pick out the tires you want.”

Keep in mind, however, you do need matched tires in the rear. If you have mismatched tires, you are putting undue stress on your tandem drive chains and on the driveline itself. The recapped rear tires on our machine were at about 50 percent wear.

Our machine

While it wouldn’t have all the bells and whistles – necessary to most highway contractors – of a new comparatively sized grader, our inspection machine also wouldn’t carry a $200,000 to $225,000 price tag. “A lot of these machines would go to a small contractor,” Miller comments, “who will live with this machine exactly as it is – he’s doing rough cuts, small pads, dirt jobs and he doesn’t have to run GPS or be within a 10th of an inch. He’d probably run this blade, even with all the wear items we mentioned, for another 500 hours. Or this could go to a small town that would put 100 hours a year on it, and it could last 20 years.”

And if a buyer wanted more precision grading ability, Miller estimates it would take about $2,500 to tighten up our machine.

But on a scale of 10, Miller would give our grader, priced between $50,000 to $60,000, a 6 or 7. “It’s relatively tight, and all cab features work. It could go to work today.” EW

GRADER INSPECTION LIST

General

Model/Year:____________

Serial number: _____________

Hours:___________________

Operator manual available? ___Yes ___No

List machine options: Paint condition: Sheet metal condition:

Cab

Condition of:

• Adjustable steering column • Seat, including seat back, bottom, arm rests,

sliding function and seat suspension • Seat belt • Floormat • Liners • Door hinges • Glass – any cracks, scratches or pits? • Window seals Dome light works? Door latches work? Horn work? Radio work? Mirrors: interior, left hand and right hand

Operational checks

Run engine and check in high and low idle:

• Any smoke? • Unusual noises or knocking? • Sufficient power? Check gear ranges in forward Check gear ranges in reverse Check lever shifter Check brakes Check pilot controller(s), if applicable Heater operation A/C operation Are all vents intact? Back up alarm Parking brake Neutral start/hydraulic lock out

Gauges and controls

Condition of:

• Articulation indicator • Coolant temperature • Transmission temperature gauge • Hydraulic temperature gauge • Engine oil pressure gauge • Fuel gauge • Monitor • Hand throttle • Fuse/cover Switches

Working condition of:

• Four-way flashers • Beacon lights • Drive lights • Front wiper • Front washer • Left hand pedal • Auto-shift • Lift group coupler disconnect • Reversible fan • Lower wiper • Lower washer • Rear washer • Rear wiper • Intermittent wiper • Blade lights • Turn signals • Work lights • Hydraulic lock out • Saddle lock pin • Defroster fans • Brake pedal • Accelerator • Decelerator

Hydraulic controls, cylinders

Condition of:

• Hydraulics meter • Left hand float • Right hand float • Levers (do they stick?)

Fluid, drivetrain checks

• Engine oil cleanliness, level Any signs of antifreeze? Any sludge? • Antifreeze cleanliness, level Any signs of oil? Any compression bubbles while running? • Engine leaks Valve cover Head leaks Oil pan Transfer pump Fuel injection pump Fuel supply lines Inter-cooler hose Water pump Exhaust manifold Excessive blow by? Belts need replacing? • Radiator Condition of upper and lower mounts Leaks in top and lower tanks? Condition of core? Upper or lower hose leaks? • Air intake, including filter, canister and hoses • Alternator • Batteries • Cables • Starter • Transmission oil cleanliness, level Show sign of antifreeze? • Transmission leaks? • Transmission cooler • Hydraulic valves

Structural

Articulation joint pins and bearings ROPS – any bends, cracks or welds? Condition of:

• Steering cylinder • Wheel lean cylinder • Circle side shift cylinder • Blade side shift cylinder • Left hand blade lift cylinder • Right hand blade lift cylinder • Blade tilt cylinder • Saddle lock cylinder • Left hand articulation cylinder • Right hand articulation cylinder

Moldboard condition:

• Bottom edge crowned or straight? • Moldboard straight or bent? • Tightness of pivot bearings

Circle drive motor:

• Ease of rotation • Drive gear wear • Drive motor • Pinion seals

Circle:

• Wear on shims • Any welds or cracks? • Amount of circle shoes that need replacing • Tightness of ball sockets • Tightness of draft ball Front scarifier cylinder, shanks Front lift group (if applicable) Front axle pins and bushings Rear ripper/scarifier

Inspect tandem pivot joints

• Left hand tandem straight and dry? • Right hand tandem straight and dry?

Inspect all four axle seals for leaks

• Left front • Left rear • Right front • Right rear

Tires

• Remaining tread on:

• Left front steer tire___________%

• Left front tandem tire___________%

• Left rear tandem tire___________%

• Right rear tandem tire___________%

• Right front tandem tire___________%

Right front steer tire___________%

By Marcia Gruver

Good used machines are at a premium these days, so it was the luck of the draw that we got to inspect not one, but two small dozers at the Tractor & Equipment yard in Birmingham, Alabama. Sitting side by side were a Komatsu 78-horsepower D31PX-22 with 500 hours and a 110-horsepower D41E-6C with 1,400 hours. Calling on his more than 30 years experience, Larry D. Foltz, district manager for Komatsu America, gave us an overview of both machines, and started out the inspection by verifying their serial numbers and hours. Next up: the walk around.

Walk around

Machine inspections start with a walk around, which allows you to get an overall sense of the machine’s condition. First, note what’s on the dozer. What kind of blade does it have? Is there a winch or a ripper? Is the ROPS open or enclosed? Both of our machines had a power angle tilt blade with an open canopy. If either of them had had a ripper or an enclosed cab, the final price would have been adjusted upward.

As you walk around the machine, look for any structural problems. Examine the main frame, track frames, hood, sheet metal panels, grill, fuel tank and paint condition. You’re looking for dents, punctures, extreme scraping and evidence of welding or plating.

Examine all blade cylinders, hoses and pins. Are any of the cylinders dented or damaged? Has the chrome on the cylinder rods been scratched? If so, leaks will either be already present or eminent. If oil can get out, dirt can get in. Next, check the blade itself – are there any welds or cracks? Are the edges worn – if so, can they be turned? Are the blade pins and bushings tight? Any patches, visible cracks, welds or plates on the push arms? Check the trunnion or pivot point for wear. Are shims available to allow for adjustment? Do the blade grease points show signs of recent greasing?

Obvious signs of abuse on a dozer center around the blade and undercarriage, Foltz says. If you see punctures in the skin of the blade, or it’s ripped or indented, it may be a sign that it’s been pushing another machine or working in severe rock. “The external appearance on a machine will tell you a lot,” he says. “I’ve seen machines come in with no grab handles, knocked off guarding around the lights, bolts missing or engine hood covers are damaged or broken. Heavy rock applications or situations where contractors used too small of a dozer for the application will make the machine show advanced signs of wear.”

Our two inspection units, the D41E-6C at left and the D31PX-22.

As expected due to their relatively low hours, both the D31 and D41 came away looking relatively unscathed, although Foltz says the hour meter doesn’t always tell the whole story. “I’ve seen machines with just 500 hours on them that were significantly beat up,” he says. “It’s all in the application it’s been used in.”

Climb into the cab and take a close look at the condition of the ROPS, seat, seat belt, floorboards and mats, instrument panel and controls. If your unit has an enclosed cab, examine the doors, latches and all glass. Note the state of the steps, handrails and mirrors.

Tell-tale leaks

As you walk around the dozer, look for leaks on the cylinders and final drives, and for any engine or transmission leaks underneath the machine. “Neither machines have any visible signs of final drive leakage on the inside of the tracks,” Foltz says. Then inspect all interior compartments – engine, battery and hydraulic – for leaks. Foltz noted the battery covers were in place on both machines and all connections were tight.

The D31 front idler wear bar had not been extended. The sprocket teeth on the D31 are still wide, "almost factory original," Foltz declared.

Check all fluid levels, including engine oil and coolant, before you start the engine. “You don’t want to start something up that’s low on oil and blow an engine,” Foltz comments. Take oil samples of the engine, transmission and hydraulic oils. The 500-hour D31 is right at the point where the engine oil and filter would need to be changed. And check the dipstick for water, which could mean an internal water leak. While you’re in the engine compartment, check the engine belt and tension. Examine the air filter.

“Check for hydraulic leaks on hoses and fittings,” Foltz says. Also look for cylinder rod damage, and leaks in the cylinders, valves, pumps and motors.

Operational checks

Turn on the dozer and listen to the engine. Does it start easily? Are there any unusual noises either from the engine or the turbocharger? Check the oil pressure.

While the blade of the D31 inspection machine had a few indentations on the spill guard, they weren’t significant.

Operate the machine, putting it through its paces. How easily does it steer left/right, and travel in forward/reverse? On dozers such as our review models with hydrostatic transmissions, listen for transmission noise and note vibration – too much of either could mean worn pumps or motors.

Check out the electrical system: warning lights, gauges, batteries, work lights and monitor panel. If the cab is enclosed, make sure the heat and air conditioning works properly. Note whether the backup alarm works.

Look for leaks near the hydraulic control valves.

Operate all blade functions (angling, right/hold/left; tilting, right/hold/left; and lifting, raise/hold/lower/float). “When you work the blade, look for any looseness,” Foltz says. Is there any drifting movement after the blade has been stopped?

As you operate the brakes, make sure there’s no grabbing or excessive noise. Also see if the machine brakes and steers left and right equally and thoroughly. And operate the parking brake.

Although it’s difficult to do in some buying situations, you should be able to operate the dozer under load to truly assess its condition. “Make sure it has the power to handle the load,” Foltz comments.

Undercarriage

“The undercarriage represents the potentially highest expense you’ll encounter on a used dozer,” Foltz says. On dozers the size of our inspection machines, a new undercarriage would cost in the neighborhood of $12,000 to $15,000. “Over the life of a dozer,” he says, “you can expect to pay about as much in replacement undercarriage costs as you originally paid for the dozer when it was new.”

Check the engine compartment for signs of oil and water leaks.

Determining undercarriage wear is critical to determining the final price of used dozer – so much so, an outside undercarriage inspection that determines the exact wear left on each undercarriage component is key. This assessment should tell you a number of things, including the percentage wear (compared with new) on these undercarriage components on each side of the machine:

• Rails, including number of links and type (wet or dry)

• Track pins and bushings

• Carrier rollers

• Track pads, including pad width and type, grouser height, and whether there’s any scalloping

• Front idlers

• Rear idlers (if high drive)

• Sprockets

• Bottom rollers

These measurements can be either done manually with a caliper and measuring tape, or with a sonic measuring device that works by placing the device on a component to determine the thickness of the steel. The device then references the measurements in the machine’s service manual to calculate the percentage of wear left. However it’s done, this assessment will run you about $200 to $300, says Lee Haak, Komatsu Remarketing, so it should only be performed on machines you’re serious about. “Since each manufacturer’s dealer has access to their own reference materials, I’d have the OEM dealer for the particular model you’re considering buying do this undercarriage inspection report,” he says.

Machines such as our demonstration units (the oldest with 1,400 hours) should not have totally new undercarriages. If they do, it might be a sign of abuse or use in a severe application. Foltz determined the older D41 would probably require an undercarriage replacement within 300 to 400 hours, so that would need to be factored into that unit’s price.

Another key in determining remaining undercarriage life is finding out how the machine has been used. A machine working in sand or rock, for instance, will have a much different wear rate than one working in loam.

An additional wear factor is track tightness. Tracks are designed for a certain amount of looseness to account for packed dirt and other material. Some dozer owners, however, run their tracks too tight, resulting in two to three times the internal wear rate on the pins, bushings and idlers. “Look for evidence of mud packing in the sprockets and the link assemblies,” Foltz says.

Seasoned professionals can get an initial assessment by reaching in and feeling the wear on the pins and bushings. “When an undercarriage is worn, you can feel a grove worn in the bushing that indicates wear,” Foltz says. “With today’s sealed and lubricated undercarriages, though, most of the wear is external.”

Ending note

Get the dozer’s repair and maintenance history, noting who the previous owner was, and their maintenance program. Foltz asks for this after his inspection “because I want to give a machine a good unbiased opinion.” Look into whether or not the machine was on a scheduled preventive maintenance program. Also be sure to ask for the oil analysis history.

Now’s the time to do some basic math. Sit down with your notes (our handy checklist at the end of this article will help keep them organized) and go through each inspection point, either downgrading or upgrading the unit under consideration. This will give you either a final ballpark figure or convince you to pass on this particular machine if it has too many problem areas. EW

Small dozer inspection checklist

Manufacturer/model:

Serial number:

Year/Hour meter:

Cab or open ROPS?

Oil analysis results on engine,

transmission and hydraulic systems:

Initial walk around

Oil levels: Low or over full?

Do all fittings take grease?

Cab

Cracked or welded?

All doors and latches working?

Condition of glass, seat and floorboards/mat

Does the AC/heat work?

Frame/sheet metal/grill damage?

Fuel tank/belly pan damage?

Blade

Width:

Cracked or welded?

Dozer blade pins and bushings tight?

Push arms

Patches, welds or plates?

Diagonal brace caps

Welds or bolts missing?

Trunnions and caps wear?

Cutting edge/bits – can it be turned

Condition of other attachments

(rippers, scarifiers, etc.)

Electrical system

Check out warning lights, gauges, battery (need charging or replacing?), work lights and monitor panel

Engine

Starts easily?

Unusual noises?

Oil or water leaks?

Belt condition and tension

Turbocharger, leaks or unusual noises?

Radiator leaks?

Drive train

Operate the machine, checking out steering, brakes, travel and reverse.

Transmission leaks?

Brakes grabbing or noisy?

Wear remaining?

Does the parking brake work?

Final drive leaks?

Torque converter leaks?

Hydraulics

Hose leaks?

Cylinder rod condition

Damaged?

Cylinder leaks or drifting?

Valves/pumps/motors leaks?

Blade operation (observe the following for any problems)

Angling, right/hold/left

Tilting, right/hold/left

Lifting, raise/hold/lower/float

Undercarriage

Track width:

Measure the following:

Pitch

Track shoe grouser height

Link height

Bushings: Wet or dry?

Can be turned?

Track roller: Seals leaking?

Can be rebuilt?

Sprockets

Idler assembly

Can be rebuilt?

Carrier rollers

Track frame cracked or welded?

Track guards

Idler wear bars – need replacement?

Safety

Working condition of backup alarm, seat belt, fan finger guards, ROPS, neutral start switch, steps and handrails, mirrors and horn

Rubber-tired trencher inspections are straightforward affairs, with little of the complications seen in other machine types.

By Marcia Gruver Doyle

“We usually see 200 to 250 hours a year on a machine this size,” says Steve Howard, used equipment manager, Vermeer Southeast Sales & Service, Birmingham, Alabama. Our inspection machine, a 1999 Vermeer V-5750, was low on that scale, clocking in at 855 hours. “Utility users tend to put fewer hours on a machine than contractors,” Howard explains.

Steve Howard

Contractors typically interested in this size and age of trencher do short runs and small jobs, such as plumbing or irrigation work. “They can get good value – this machine would cost about $7,500 compared to a $40,000 new trencher – and it will last them a long time,” Howard says.

Key inspections points include:

Engine: Perhaps because our 57-horsepower inspection machine had such low hours, Howard didn’t see anything in this area that concerned him. He looks for paint discoloration, especially on the engine head, which could tell the story of an engine overheating. If the engine is water cooled, he also suggests inspecting the radiator fins for damage. In addition, he highly recommends pulling an oil sample. “It’s inexpensive and it will give you a good idea of what’s been happening,” he says.

Hydraulics: Most of today’s trenchers are hydrostatic, with hydraulic pumps running the motors for both the ground and trencher drives. Howard recommends cranking the machine up and checking hydraulic pressures by putting a test gauge on the hydraulic test ports, then deadheading each system. And pull another oil sample. “You can’t just look at the trencher motor, for example, and determine the condition,” Howard says. “You’ve got to do the oil sample and pressure test.”

Operational checks: While the machine is running, make sure the hour meter is running properly and the alternator’s charging. Put it in forward and reverse to observe how it tracks and steers. Operate the trencher, and see if you can trench with it. Engage the chain, observe how it runs on the sprockets and idlers and make sure it’s not loose. Listen for any skips – the chain should run smoothly and a skip could indicate a sprocket problem or bad chain link. Run the chain in forward and reverse. Lower the boom and pick up the back end of the trencher about 6 inches, looking for play in the pivot rings as they take on the weight of the machine.

If you don’t have the time to check out a machine in question, Howard suggests hiring a local mechanic to thoroughly put a machine through its paces. Also check with your dealer buddies and other contractors – because of reported problems, certain makes and models may not have the resale value the buyer is asking.

Trencher: This is what Howard calls “the money end.” Look at the drive sprocket, noting any wear that would require replacement. The chain on our inspection machine had more age than wear – the teeth were badly pitted, and the rollers had a great deal of rust and corrosion. “I would plan on replacing this chain sometime in the near future,” Howard says.

Since it’s in the ground during trenching work, examine the end roller bearing looking for regular greasing, and the absence of excessive wear or damage. Check the auger drive and chain drive sprocket: are they tight and in good shape, with no hydraulic oil leaks visible? Sprocket teeth should have smooth edges – when they start to sharpen, it’s a sign of wear.

Frame: Trenchers this size usually don’t show stress fractures. Adverse digging conditions, however, could shear off bolts, and cause cracks. These stresses are more typical in plowing applications, which require the machine’s tractive effort to pull the heavy weight. A trencher plow attachment’s shaker – which vibrates to help pull it through the ground – also puts additional stress on the rear mounting. Another potential stress area to note is where the backhoe mounts at the front of the machine.

Backfill blade: Most trenchers of this size come with a 6-way backfill blade. Since operators sometime use the blade to push more than it’s designed for, look for stress fractures where the blade mounts to the tractor frame. Inspect the grader – or bottom edge – of the blade. Also note any dings and dents – since trenchers this size are typically equipped with a front-end backhoe, the blade sometimes takes a lot of abuse from too-quick swings. Even a badly banged up blade, though, will still be useful and is usually repaired instead of replaced.

Backhoe: (Note: Since our Vermeer inspection machine did not have a backhoe, we used a slightly smaller 2000 Case 460 trencher with 1,200 hours to go over backhoe inspection items.) Get into the backhoe operator seat and lower the boom to the ground, checking the center pivot by slowly touching the bucket to the ground and observing how much slack you get when it actually starts lifting the tractor off the ground. Run the backhoe through all basic functions – swing left and right, move the boom up and down, and the stick in and out, etc. Look for slack at any pivot or pin point, including the center pivot, and whether there’s any sway in the backhoe after it stops. Check the bucket and note if any teeth need replacing. Lower the stabilizers, observing the degree of movement once each one reaches the ground, which will indicate how tightly the backhoe is mounted to the frame.

Cosmetics: Scrapes, dents and dings are all part of a trencher’s workaday world. It’s up to you whether it’s important the used machine you buy resembles a just-off-the-assembly-line unit. Because of the amount of shielding on a trencher, a paint job can be a time consuming and moderately expensive wish list item – perhaps worth it on a two- or three-year-old model, but questionable in older units such as our inspection machine. EW

Inspection TIPS

Go along with Howard as he points out critical inspection areas on our digital edition, EquipmentWorldDigital.com.

INSPECTION CHECKLIST

Model:____________________________________________

 Serial number: _________________________________________

Engine hours:__________________________________________

 Ground drive:___________________________________________

___rubber tire

___track

Tire/Track condition (percent of life left):

___% Left

___% Right

Engine condition:__________________________________________

Hydraulic/hydrostatic system condition:___________________________

Transmission/gearbox condition: ___________________________________

Ground drive condition: ____________________________________________

Backfill blade:_____________________________________________________

 ___4-way

___6-way

Condition:_____________________________________________________

 Paint and shielding condition:________________________________________

 Trencher attachment

Digging depth: ______________________________________

End idler diameter: _________________________________________

Chain style and size:___________________________________________

 Cutter style and width:___________________________________________

 Bridge style:

___Restraint bar

___Crumber

Trencher drive motor/gearbox condition: _________________________________

Digging chain condition:__________________________________________

 Sprockets, bearings and wearstrips condition:_______________________________

Backhoe attachment

Overall condition:_____________________________________________

 Bucket width:________________________________________________

 Bucket condition: ________________________________________________

Pins and bushings condition:__________________________________________

Condition of any other attachments:________________________________________

A four-part inspection will give you the information you need before you spend your hard-earned money on a particular machine.

By Marcia Gruver

“Keep in mind that an appraisal is nothing but an opinion,” says Paul Hendrix, IronPlanet equipment pricing analyst. “The value of the machine is determined by what’s there and what condition it’s in. But everyone’s going to see things a bit differently.”

Hendrix, who has more than 20 years of experience buying and selling used equipment, took us to Thompson Tractor’s Montgomery, Alabama, facility to inspect a Caterpillar 420E with 3,521 hours.

Hendrix breaks down his backhoe inspection into four major areas:

• Mechanical (engine, transmission and hydraulics)

• Structural (looking for cracks, welds, plates and dents in critical areas such as frames, booms and buckets)

• Cosmetic (sheet metal, paint, corrosion, interior condition and glass)

• Tires.

First things first

Before you start inspecting the backhoe, locate and write down the serial number to verify the model year, either by calling the manufacturer or referring to a serial number guide. Most, but not all, manufacturers have gone to 17-character system where the 10th character from the left denotes the year model.

Our inspector: Paul Hendrix, an IronPlanet equipment pricing analyst.

Then begin your walk around, noting general machine features such as type of loader bucket, type of backhoe bucket, whether it’s a two- or four-wheel drive machine, ROPs canopy or enclosed cab. Our inspection machine has general purpose buckets on both ends, four-wheel drive, an enclosed cab, air conditioning and a standard stick. This information will give you the basics when you search for comparable machines sold recently, essential in appraising the machine.

Bring along your camera to record any notable areas of the machine. Get all the information you can on the machine’s previous applications, any recent repairs or rebuilds, and if any maintenance records are available. “You have to be a bit of a detective,” Hendrix says.

For instance, if the backhoe comes with a ditch cleaning bucket, it’s likely the bucket spent a lot of time in water, so pay close attention to the bucket pins and bushings since there’s a chance they experienced higher-than-normal wear.

Structural inspection

We started on the loader end with our walk-around. There, take a good look at the torque tube that connects the two loader arms. Since this part is subject to a lot of twisting action, check it for stress marks and cracks. Look for welds and plating, which indicate a crack repair. Cracks can also appear where the loader arms connect to the bucket.

With the backhoe bucket on the ground, move the controls backwards and forwards and side to side, looking for excessive movement in the bucket pins and bushings.

If you can, place the machine on a concrete pad and check that the loader bucket sits level on the ground. If it is sitting at an odd angle, there could be twisting in the loader arms. (But make sure the tire pressure on both front tires is correct, since uneven tire pressure can also give this effect.) Examine the loader bucket’s cutting edge and corners, looking for excessive wear. If the bucket has to be replaced, it could cost you in the $3,000 to $6,000 range.

On the backhoe end, examine the boom, stick and bucket, again looking for cracks, welds and plates. Although scratches and dings are to be expected, any damage that actually changes the shape of the boom or stick – such as a puncture – needs serious assessment.

Check all hydraulic cylinders for leaks. If leaks are found, inspect the rod surfaces for pitting or damage. If the machine has an extra hydraulic circuit, it opens up the possibility it may have been used with a hammer, which can create a lot of structural stress.

Although manufacturers have done a good job of recessing grease fittings, check to see that none of them have been knocked off. Make sure that every place that can be greased has some grease on it. Note the previous owner’s greasing habits, or as Hendrix puts it, if the machine is “dirty in all the right places. I don’t see excessive grease as a bad thing.”

And check out the ROPS, looking for signs of repair. If this structure has been compromised in any way, it may not protect you or your operator in a roll-over situation.

Mechanical

Next, check out the machine’s mechanics. Always check the oil and water first, and be sure the engine is cold if at all possible. (Diesel engines that are hard to start when cold are often an indication of internal wear.) Look for oil in the water and water in the oil, plus major leaks or smoke. Check to see if oil sample records are available. Look at the filters. “I check to see whether they are OEM filters – not that aftermarket filters are bad, it’s just an indication that the previous owner preferred factory filters,” Hendrix says. Ask if the machine was on a service contract.

Check the sight glass to see if the hydraulic oil level is adequate. Don’t run the machine if it is low. Check hydraulic oil levels cold with all work equipment on the ground.

Get into the cab and turn on the machine. Test the brakes to make sure they will stop the machine. Then check that the machine will go in all gears both forward and reverse and that there are no unusual noises. If there’s room, this can be done while driving around the yard, or by lifting the front and rear wheels off the ground and testing in place.

Operate the hydraulics and listen for unusual noises. Then put the loader arms up in the air and shut the machine off. Observe for a few minutes to see if the boom drifts downward, which is a sign of internal bypass in the cylinders.

Move the seat into the backhoe position and make sure all the levers or joysticks work properly. Cycle through all the boom, arm and bucket functions repeatedly. Extend the backhoe out to its maximum reach and swing it back and forth. If you feel slack in the boom, the pins and bushings may be loose and need repair. Also look down the plane of the boom and stick, looking for excessive lateral movement.

Apply both up and down pressure and forward and backward pressure, looking for excessive movement when checking the boom, stick and bucket pins and when checking swing tower pins. If there’s excessive wear in the swing tower pins, line boring may be necessary, which could cost you $1,500 to $6,000 depending on the machine size.

“Once pins in this area reach a certain wear point, they start to bang every time you put the machine in motion,” Hendrix says.

Although our machine had pilot backhoe controls, many backhoes have mechanical controls. If your inspection machine has mechanical controls, use this cycling time to note any excessive wear in the mechanical linkages, such as the control levers wobbling.

And while you’re in the seat, test out the horn and backup alarm and make sure the air conditioning works properly.

Cosmetics

Everyone will carry into a machine inspection their individual viewpoint on cosmetics. Some require a near-perfect looking machine, others don’t care as long as the performance items check out. Know what’s important to you before you start inspecting.

Check the condition of all sheet metal, paint, steps, composite plastic fenders and hoods. On our inspection machine, Hendrix investigated an area on the hood that was bubbled and peeling. Wondering if it indicated a previous overheating problem, he looked under the hood, but didn’t find any evidence. “It’s something I’d definitely question the previous owner about,” he says.

One cosmetic problem Hendrix is especially wary of is corrosion. A machine that’s perhaps been used in a salt or chemical environment, such as around coal dust or cement, can show corrosion problems. “It seems like you can never fix serious corrosion,” he says. “You can sandblast it, paint it, and two weeks later it will start bleeding rust.” And corrosion runs deeper than cosmetics, getting into engine components and wiring. “It’s just a recipe for disaster. I’d move on.”

Check the seals around door frames since they tend to trap moisture. Inspect the glass all the way around the cab, noting any cracks or missing panes. Our inspection machine, for example, had a poor glass replacement job on one side.

Get into the cab, and note the general condition of the seat and seat belt, moving the seat into all possible positions to determine ease of movement. Make sure all gauges and controls are operational.

Tires

Inspect all four tires thoroughly, noting any size mismatches. Check the rims for cracks – which can cause problems when you go to replace a tire – and make sure there are no loose lug nuts, which will eventually create an egg-shaped lug nut hole. Check the tread depth with a tread depth gauge.

Another area to check for excessive movement are the swing tower pins.

“You’ve got to physically inspect all four tires,” Hendrix says. “You can’t assume that because one tire is one way, the other three are that way too.”

Look for sidewall cuts, which will also require you to go under the machine to check for these cuts on the inside of each tire.

And know what you’ve got. Sometimes you’ll run across foam-filled tires, which cost extra to remove since they have to be cut off. A simple air valve check will clue you in to whether you’ve got a pneumatic tire or not.

Determining a fair price

Research the prices comparable machines with the same general features have gotten on both the auction and retail markets. “It’s good to talk to a lot of different people from all the market segments, don’t just talk to another contractor or a dealer or an auction house, but poll the entire spectrum,” Hendrix says. “Even if you’re just buying two to three machines a year, poll your sources.” Another tip: get to know a dealer’s mechanic, and get their opinion.

Then deduct the estimated cost of any items you’ve noted that need repair to get it up to your standards. Most problems are fixable, but the price of the fix may put a particular machine out of your comfort zone.

Since backhoes tend to be entry-level machines, they can come in all conditions. “This is income producing property,” Hendrix says. “It really behooves you to spend the time to research it.” EW

Editor’s note: This article is intended as a checklist of considerations when buying a used backhoe, not as an all-inclusive used equipment buying guide.

Backhoe inspection checklist

General

Make/model:

Year of manufacture:

Engine type:

Serial number:

Hour meter:

Features/options:

Loader bucket yardage:

Backhoe bucket yardage:

Attachments:

Structural

Backhoe boom, arm and bucket condition:

Loader end, arm and bucket condition:

Hydraulic cylinders condition:

Hydraulic lines, hoses and

fittings condition:

Frame cracks?

Non-manufacturer welds and plates?

Any required repairs?

Tires

Left front, size/make:

Tread/condition:

Right front, size/make:

Tread/condition:

Left rear, size/make:

Tread/condition:

Right rear, size/make:

Tread/condition:

Any required repairs?

Operational checklist

Engine oil level/condition:

Oil leaks?

Coolant leaks?

Hydraulic oil condition?

Backup alarm operational?

Horn operational?

Gauges in place and working?

Seat belt working?

Air conditioning working?

Any required repairs?

Pins and bushings inspection

Inspect pins and bushings for damage and misalignment, and note condition

Backhoe pins:

Swing tower pins:

Loader pins:

Any required repairs?

Cosmetics

Overall appearance:

Cab condition:

Glass condition:

Lights:

Any required repairs?

Comments from previous owner or seller

Any recent repairs or rebuilds?

Applications used in?

Are maintenance records available?

Pay particular attention to two key areas:  undercarriages and hydraulics.

By Marcia Gruver

Thoroughly inspecting a used excavator takes between one and two hours, so go into it with clear objectives. Know exactly how you plan to use the machine – including application and whether it will be a primary or backup machine – and how much you’re willing to spend to get it in operating order.

To get an overview of what goes into this inspection, we talked with Howard Abell, former vice president of sales with Flagler Construction Equipment, a Volvo dealer in Orlando, Florida, and now president of Advantage Construction Equipment & Parts. Dennis McDavid, Flagler’s used equipment manager, assisted in the inspection. The model up for inspection came from Flagler’s rental fleet: a Volvo EC210C with 1,394 hours.

Get ready

There are a few basic tools needed to inspect an excavator: a track measuring group (available from most equipment dealers), stop watch, 25-foot tape measure, magnetic dial indicator and a clipboard for recording measurements and observations. Some manufacturers have inspection checklists you can download from their websites or you can use the one we’ve attached to the digital version of this article. Write down the model and serial number, usually located in excavators near the floor on the outside right side of the cab. Note the number of hours.

Perhaps even more important than having the proper tools at the ready is choosing the right person to serve as your machine operator during the inspection. “You want to make sure the person you’re working with understands what you’re saying and what you want to do,” Abell says. If you’re working with an operator you haven’t worked with before, make sure he knows your hand signals. And be defensive. “Try not to put yourself in a position where if something happens, you’ll get hurt,” Abell says. “Steel doesn’t have much mercy.”

Make sure your machine operator knows your signals and what you want. Howard Abell (at right) teamed up with Flagler’s used equipment manger, Dennis McDavid, to perform this inspection.

Before getting down to specifics, go on a walk-around to get a general impression of the machine’s wear. Look for cracks, especially on weld seams, although cracks can appear anywhere. Plating will tell you the previous owner has put a plate over a crack for reinforcement. Abell feels cracks and/or any resultant plating will tell you a machine has been improperly used. “Cracks decrease the value of the machine around 20 percent,” he says. While you always have to judge a machine based on how you plan to use it, Abell says he steers clear of small and mid-size excavators that have cracks.

Also look for any oil seepage in the boom and stick cylinders. If a cylinder is seeping and looks resealable, calculate $2,500 per cylinder to fix the problem. In this initial walk around, note if there are any torn hydraulic lines and if all the brackets are in place.

Sheet metal damage, while usually not a major cost item, still needs to be factored in. Cab cosmetics and functionality should be noted. How worn is the seat? Are all gauges working? Is there any missing or broken glass?

Take advantage of the computer diagnostics in today’s machines. Note any error codes. And if it’s a low-hour machine, pay a manufacturer’s dealer to run a complete diagnostic/history report, downloaded from the machine’s computer. (See sidebar below.)

Look under the lower housing to see if oil is dripping underneath. Since excavators are primarily hydraulic machines, a hydraulic leak could signal a major problem. While a leak could just mean a relatively inexpensive seal replacement, if oil is leaking out of the hydraulic pump you might have to replace the pump, which would cost around $12,000 to $15,000.

How deep will it dig? Since excavators have several boom and stick options, it pays to measure them both, and compare them with original specs. “There’s no sticker to let you know what you’ve got, so you’ve got to measure,” Abell says.

Now that you’ve gotten an overview of the machine, it’s time to get specific with the undercarriage: tracks, drive sprocket, idlers and rollers. Although some contend they can visually determine how much wear is on an undercarriage, Abell says the only way you can truly determine wear is to measure it.

But first, look at the rail pins and bushings. As the pins and bushings wear internally, each track segment lengthens and becomes looser. To take up the slack, the front idler is moved forward in a bracket on the rails between the idler and the rear drive sprocket. There will come a point, however, when no further adjustments can be made. Some excavator owners will then make the bad decision of taking a link out. While this makes the track look tighter, it also creates a tremendous amount of internal wear. You can count the links and compare them with how many are supposed to be there, but Abell says the best way to see if an undercarriage is worn out is to measure it using a track measuring group, which costs about $250 and is available from most dealers. Here’s an overview of the key undercarriage measurements:

Grousers: Take the depth gauge from the track measuring group (it looks like a flat bar), and lay it across the pad, then set the rod on the gauge to the depth of the grouser. Use the ruler in the track measuring group to determine how deep the rod is set. Compare the measurement to the manufacturer’s “new” and “limited use” numbers, as published in the machine’s service manual (an OEM dealer can also give you these numbers). How close your measurement is to either one of those numbers will help you determine grouser wear.

Rails: Using a measuring tape, measure from the outside of one pin to the outside of another pin five pins way. Once again, compare it the manufacturer’s published “new” and “limited use” numbers to determine what percentage of use remains.

Links: One wear point is the flat area on the links that run over the rollers and idlers. Put the depth gauge from the measurement group against the bottom of the link and then position the rod from the gauge so it hits the bottom of the pad. Measure the depth of the rod and then compare against the manufacturer’s numbers.

Carrier rollers tread diameter (top rollers): Taking the caliper from the track measuring group, work it over the roller’s outer diameter. Bring it out and measure the distance between the two prongs of the caliper. Again, compare your measurement with the new/limited use scale.

Guide rollers tread diameter (bottom rollers): Reposition the machine so that the track you’re measuring is lifted off the ground. Guide rollers are measured the same way as carrier rollers. Be sure to measure each roller independently, taking care with the front roller and back roller, both of which experience more wear.

Sprockets: This is a more subjective observation. If the sprockets are pointed it’s a sign they are worn. Some manufacturers have a see-through sprocket gauge included in its track measuring group that visually lets you know how much wear is left.

Bushings: Measure with calipers and calculate the wear from the manufacturer’s chart.

Use your individual component measurements and observations to determine a wear calculation for the entire undercarriage. If the entire undercarriage needs to be replaced on a machine this size, it will run around $12,000.

Linkages

Examine the machine for wear on all the pins and bushings throughout the linkage on the boom, having the operator work from a side loading position using a cycle that first puts down pressure on the bucket and then releases it. Each time the operator cycles the machine, check for any movement in the bushings. Look at each bushing independently. Abell first checks the bucket pins and bushings, instructing the operator to take the bucket completely off the ground.

“Loose pins and bushings are a key sign of how the machine has been treated,” Abell says. “It also tells me that they maybe didn’t properly grease the machine.

Swing bearing

For a 20-metric-ton machine such as the one we’re inspecting, you should virtually have no movement in the swing bearing. “If you can see any movement in a swing bearing on a machine this size, it’s probably too much,” Abell says.

Beyond the visual inspection, use a magnetic dial indicator to take a measurement at four quarter turn positions; an average of these four measurements will tell you what kind of shape the machine’s swing bearing is in. “Without this measurement, you’re guessing at the amount of wear in the swing bearing and this is a costly repair item,” Abell says.

Hydraulic cycles

Since excavators are hydraulic-centric machines, checking out the hydraulic pressure and flow is critical. Using a stop watch, time how long the machine takes to do several tasks. A couple of examples: test the boom cylinder speed by fully retracting the arm cylinder and fully extending the bucket cylinder, then raise and lower the boom, timing each up and down motion. To test the arm cylinder, with the bucket cylinder fully extended, time how long it takes to move the arm from the full-out position to the full-in position. Then time how long it takes to return to the full arm out position again. Do each test three times and average your numbers. Then compare your times with manufacturer published times.

To test the track running speed, tie a ribbon on one of the track shoes on the side being tested, jack up the track being tested, then time how long it takes to do three track rotations at maximum speed. Apply the test to both tracks, forward and reverse. Also tram the machine to make sure it trams in a straight line – if it trams one way or the other you could have a pump that’s getting weak.

Check for drifting – also called creeping – by raising the boom with a full load in the bucket, then turning the machine off. Wipe the oil off the boom cylinder rod and mark the measuring start point with a piece of tape.

After five minutes, measure again to see how much it has drifted down. (Remove the tape and clean carefully.) While a certain amount of drift is acceptable, excessive drift could be a sign of packing in the cylinder, or oil bypassing internally in the control valves or cylinder.

Final takes

Toward the end of your inspection, after the machine’s been running a bit, take another walk around, opening up service doors, and looking underneath to check any leaks that appear after the machine’s been running awhile.

Also look at the swing gear box and motor, making sure the oil is clean on the dipstick and that no water is present. And check the engine dipsticks, looking at how black the oil is, which will tell you how long it’s been since it’s been changed. Check also for moisture and blow-by, which sometime you can feel coming out of the dipstick compartment. EW

Editor’s note: This article is intended as a checklist of considerations when buying a used excavator, not as an all-inclusive used equipment buying guide.

Get the printout

Computer diagnostics on machines produced in the past five years or so can give you a wealth of information. For example, by using Volvo’s MATRIS program on the EC210C used for this article, you could find out:

• 96 percent of the time the engine coolant temperature was between 167 and 208.4 degrees.

• 47 percent of the time the machine was operated in “heavy” mode.

• 33 percent of the time the engine idled three to 10 minutes before shutdown.

• Hydraulic oil temperatures ranged from 140 to 176 for 558.3 hours